#176: Exploring Ooty and Mysore's Majestic Beauty
And Breathing Life into Your Story By Illuminating Details
After a week at the Jindal Naturecure Centre in Bangalore, my husband’s father and sister joined in Banglore and together we journeyed to Ooty, located 271 km southwest of Bangalore.
One time the summer capital of the Madras Presidency of British India, Ooty is situated in the Nilgiri Hills and is often referred to as the "Queen of Hill Stations."
In 1819, John Sullivan the Collector of Coimbatore visited Ooty and wrote “It resembles Switzerland, more than any other country of Europe… the hills beautifully wooded and fine strong spring with running water in every valley.”
Nilgiri Hills spans across three Indian states (Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Kerala) and is one of the oldest mountain ranges in the Western Ghats of northwestern India.
The name "Nilgiri" translates to "blue mountains," with the striking blue hue attributed to the mass flowering of Neela Kurinji (Strobilanthes Kunthiana) that bloom once in twelve years.
This blue appearance, visible from a distance, is also due to the Rayleigh Scattering Effect, where sunlight interacts with atmospheric molecules, creating a bluish tint.
The drive was beautiful and passed quickly catching up with family. After passing through Mysore, a delightful surprise awaited us: the opportunity to traverse Bandipur National Park, a sprawling 874 sq km forest area designated as a tiger reserve.
On the spur of a moment we decided to take another safari hoping for a glimpse of the elusive tiger, having missed it in Kaziranga National Park. Unfortunately, being a Friday, all tickets were sold out.
Nonetheless, as soon as we entered the park, our eyes were treated to a herd of spotted deer grazing near the road, unperturbed by the numerous cars halting for pictures. Venturing deeper, more herds emerged, but a majestic elephant with full tusks stole the show, positioned perfectly for a photograph that captivated onlookers with their mobile phone cameras.
As dusk approached, a plethora of animals ventured out, peacocks, wild pigs, and langurs among them. Once a hunting ground for the Maharajahs of Mysore, the park adjoins the Mudumalai Tiger Reserve in Tamil Nadu. Despite unsuccessful attempts to book a safari in Bandipur, we managed to book one with local operators at the Mudumalai.
We boarded a Jeep at around 5:00 pm and drove beside the river, where animals gather to drink water at dusk. As anticipated, we witnessed a diverse array of freely roaming animals; however, the elusive tiger remained hidden.
Although these reserves have the second largest population of tigers in India, many of them occasionally venture out to the adjoining jungles in search of food.
Ooty
When we reached Ooty, it was almost dark. The lights on the hills looked like stars scattered on the ground. Our resort, situated on the outskirts of Ooty, presented an immediate challenge. We were allocated rooms on the first floor and there was no lift. Given the inability of my 95-year-old father-in-law to climb stairs, we requested a ground-floor room. However, the ground floor only housed reception, dining, and a shop. The hotel, displaying exceptional kindness, provided a wheelchair and carried him upstairs. Not just once but each time we came down for meals or went out.
Our evening unfolded with a delightful meal at the resort, featuring soup, chicken tikka, and stuffed kulchas.
The following morning, we woke up to a light drizzle. The hills around us were draped in clouds. Ooty is also famous for its mist. After breakfast, we visit to Doddabetta Peak, just 3 km from our resort. At 2623 meters, it’s the highest peak in Ooty. We were hoping for a 360-degree view of the hills but had to settle for cloud-obscured vistas for the duration of our half-hour stay.
Next, we wanted to ride the historical toy train through lush green hills and tea gardens of Ooty only to find out that the train was suspended due to a landslide.
Undeterred, we explored Ooty Lake, an artificial reservoir fed by local streams, originally built for fishing but now a tourist hotspot. We wanted to hire a boat but ruled it out for safety concerns regarding our father.
Adjacent to the lake, is Ooty’s Botanical Garden. It was a beautiful place. We spent some time there strolling through the green vistas. We took a stroll through it. Spread over 55 acres, it is divided into 5 sections - Lower Gardens, Italian Gardens, Fern House, Conservatories, and Nurseries. In summer it hosts a flower show. The garden also boasts a 20-million-year-old fossilized tree trunk as a prominent attraction.
Compared to the plains, Nilgiri hills are cooler and wetter, featuring undulating grassy downs where tea, coffee, cinchona, and vegetables thrive. The landscape is adorned with numerous tea estates, adding to the area's breathtaking beauty.
On the way back we opted for a different route.
‘These towering trees are the famous Nilgiri trees,’ our driver gestured towards the exceptionally tall, erect, and wide-stemmed trees.
I thought Nilgiri trees were local; turns out they are a specific variety of eucalyptus (Eucalyptus Globulus) introduced by the British in the mid-1800s for fuel and lumber. They grow rapidly, reaching 2 meters wide and 25-50 meters high. Notably, Nilgiri Eucalyptus oil, derived from these trees, is used for treating respiratory issues and offering relief from joint and muscular pain due to its analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties.
Despite their utilitarian origins, the trees are visually stunning and have made appearances in numerous Hindi movies.
Once again we traversed Mudumalai and Bandipur Tiger Reserves, but amid the midday sun, our wildlife sightings were limited to a small herd of deer resting under shady trees.
'If we had spotted a tiger, our trip would have been complete,' remarked my sister-in-law.
'Did you know,' added my husband, 'on the day we passed through here, a tiger killed a 50-year-old woman.'
Upon our return, we learned from the news that authorities were still hunting for the elusive tiger.
Luckily we didn’t see the tiger (or the tiger didn’t see us).
Mysore
We arrived in Mysore by 2:00 pm, a city renowned for its beauty. Mysore was once the capital of the Mysore kingdom from 1399 to 1947.
With only half a day in Mysore, we were fortunate to have explored its main landmarks on a previous visit—Chamundeshwari Temple, Mysore Palace, Mysore Zoo, and Tipu Sultan’s tomb.
Among these, Tipu Sultan’s tomb lingers vividly in my memory. Nestled in a peaceful garden of sandalwood trees, it is a simple structure adorned with intricate jali (stone carvings), allowing the fresh breeze to permeate. Tipu Sultan, the valiant emperor of Mysore, led an uprising against the British in 1857, ultimately losing the war and his life. This serene shrine, redolent with the soft fragrance of sandalwood, serves as a poignant homage to the courageous king.
Having previously explored the Mysore Palace's interior brilliance, we chose to witness its nightly illumination from 7-8 pm—a spectacle that captivates the entire town, drawing locals and tourists together.
Our final hour in Mysore was dedicated to shopping. The following morning, we headed straight to the airport and caught a flight back to Chandigarh.
Thus concludes my six-week exploration of India. The next two weeks will be spent with family before my return to Australia in mid-December.
I'm eager to hear your thoughts on my travelogue. Please share your feedback in the comments section.
Today’s Lesson And Writing Prompt
Breathing Life into Your Story By Illuminating Details
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