#173: Headhunting Tribe of Nagaland
And crafting the conclusion of a travel story
“Nagaland is different to everything you have seen and experienced so far,” said our tour guide.
“Different in which way?” I inquired.
As we journeyed from Kaziranga National Park to Kohima, the capital of Nagaland, through lush green mountains after spending eight days in Assam and Meghalaya, we were heading for the third state, Nagaland—a mountainous region bordering Myanmar.
“In every way," he responded thoughtfully. "Nagaland is a tribal area inhabited by 17 major tribes and their sub-tribes. Each tribe is distinct in character, with unique customs, language, dress, culture, and festivals. Naga people's primary loyalty is to their tribes. They're also known as fierce warriors. Nagaland was the only area the British couldn't fully conquer."
"Is that so?"
"Yes, ma'am. The first British invasion of the Naga region was in 1832. Naga tribes resisted for 48 years. In 1880, the British signed a peace treaty with Nagas. However, Nagas didn't trust the British written treaty; they insisted on their own way. Legend has it that two men from Mezoma and Khonoma held the head of a cat, while the British representative sliced it into two from the neck to sign their agreement."
Oh, my god!"
"Do you know about the headhunters of Nagaland, ma'am?"
"No."
"You're going to meet the last remaining ones on your last day in Nagaland, in the Mon village where you're staying for two nights. Between 1875 and 1944, territorial conflicts between rival tribes were resolved through warfare. The Konyak tribe, feared for its headhunting skills, beheaded enemies and displayed the severed heads on walls and doorways as trophies."
"You say we are going to meet them? Do they still do that?"
"No, ma'am. The Indian government banned headhunting in 1960. However, the tradition continued for a few more years. Now, only a few in their 80s and 90s remain, also known as tattooed people because they were rewarded with a tattoo for each killing."
It took us nearly six hours to reach Kohima, passing through Dimapur, Nagaland's commercial hub. Contrary to our guide's descriptions, both Dimapur and Kohima featured posh boutique shops selling Western clothes. Traditional attire was nowhere to be seen, with men and women dressed in trousers and shirts. Signboards prominently addressed HIV prevention.
Upon inquiry, our guide explained that the British successfully employed a strategy of winning the land through missionaries. As a result, many Nagas converted to Christianity, adopting Western traditions blindly. Despite Nagaland being a dry state, alcohol consumption is widespread, and issues like womanizing contribute to HIV concerns.
The following day, we explored Khonoma village, renowned as the first Green Village of Northeast India. Achieving this status wasn't easy due to the ingrained practice of hunting. The elders of the Angami tribe, who are the main inhabitants of the village, persuaded their people to abandon hunting, emphasizing the importance of preserving nature for future generations. Bans on hunting and logging were implemented, leading to a transformation in village practices. Khonoma has become fully self-sustained, sourcing water from the mountains and cultivating its own rice, vegetables, and millets.
Entering the village through a gate adorned with two traditional weapons, symbolizing the warrior status of its inhabitants, we were greeted by Martin, an educated young man from the village. Martin, our local guide hired to support the local economy, led us through a series of steps, identifying local vegetation, including orchids, daisies, vegetables, and medicinal plants.
He then gestured towards the stepped fields where villagers cultivate their rice and other grains. "We practice Jhum cultivation here," Martin proudly explained.
"What's Jhum cultivation?"
"We clear a portion of the forest, cultivate crops there for a few years, and then leave it, allowing the forest to grow back. We don't cut the trees from the roots; this way, they retain nitrogen in the soil and easily regrow when the land is left fallow."
"That's amazing," I remarked, it reminded me of the Aborigines of Australia who moved from one area to another, allowing the land to replenish and sprinkling seeds before they left for future vegetation.
I observed numerous headstones outside many houses adorned with wreaths on grave-like structures. Intrigued I asked, "What are these?"
"When someone dies, they are buried close to their houses. We believe they prefer to stay near the place where they have lived all their lives."
Later, during a visit to the Kohima museum, I learned more about Naga people's burial practices. Different tribes had distinct traditions, with some practicing primary (earth-cut pits and scaffolding/platform burial) and secondary burials (using log coffins and finally placing human remains in earthen jars).
In certain cultures, coffins were smoked to dry inside the family kitchen. A partition wall was constructed in the kitchen to house the coffin, raised on a scaffold. A fire was ignited beneath the coffin, kept going to accelerate the decomposition process. A bamboo tube with a sheath around its mouth was placed to collect body fluids resulting from the decomposition process.
We then visited the village Morung. The Morung served as a social center where crucial rituals took place, including the initiation of boys into manhood, their education, and hunting training. Boys slept on long beds crafted from a single, massive tree trunk. In the era of headhunting, beheaded heads were brought to the Morung and displayed as souvenirs. Village elders convened to make important decisions there. These centres were mostly autonomous, managed by a council of village elders, even conducting their own political relations with neighboring villages.
Morungs were typically associated with a log drum, also known as Morung—a large gong made from a single tree trunk. The drum served to announce the arrival of enemies and played a significant role in religious and festival ceremonies.
In Kohima, we explored the newly furnished and meticulously documented Nagaland Museum, delving deeper into the diverse cultures of the 16 tribes. A dedicated section showcased traditional games played by tribal communities, along with their cultural practices and attire.
Each year, during the first week of December, the Naga tribes celebrate the Hornbill Festival, also known as the Festival of Festivals. This week-long event brings together people from across Nagaland, offering a vibrant array of performances, crafts, sports, food fairs, games, and ceremonies. Traditional arts, such as paintings, wood carvings, and sculptures, are prominently showcased.
Festival highlights encompass exhibitions of traditional Naga Morungs, the sale of arts and crafts, food stalls, herbal medicine stalls, flower shows and sales, a cultural medley featuring songs and dances, fashion shows, the Miss Nagaland beauty contest, traditional archery, Naga wrestling, indigenous games, and captivating musical concerts. Unfortunately we missed it by three weeks.
In the evening, we paid a poignant visit to the Kohima War Cemetery, the site of one of World War II's bloodiest battles. After sweeping through Burma, Japanese forces attacked Imphal and Kohima to annihilate the Commonwealth Fourteenth Army on the Indian border. Following two weeks of brutal fighting, resulting in the loss of 7,000 Japanese and 4,000 British and Indian forces, Kohima was successfully defended.
Located on a small hill in the heart of Kohima city center, the War Cemetery stood as a serene and well-maintained tribute. Each grave was marked by a headstone, evoking memories of my visit to Gallipoli in Turkey, where thousands of Allied forces, predominantly Australians and New Zealanders, lost their lives.
The following day, we set out for the Mon village to encounter the tattooed headhunters. The journey proved to be a lengthy one, navigating through predominantly broken roads that eroded annually with monsoon rains. Despite our early start and making good time, our progress was halted near Ungma village by a group identifying themselves as the ‘Nagaland Commercial Vehicle Association.’ They were obstructing all commercial vehicles, including hired cars, demanding overdue payments from the Nagaland government for services rendered during the earlier elections this year.
Although the men were of short stature and dressed casually, their behavior carried a threatening undertone. One individual, wearing a black t-shirt with 'commando' printed on it, had a long black cloth covering his head, obscuring his face—reminiscent of a modern version of headhunters.
The group had already detained several trucks and hired vehicles, proving unyielding to our pleas and negotiation attempts. Moreover, even if they permitted us to pass this blockade, there was no guarantee of an uninterrupted tour ahead.
Ultimately, following the advice of our tour operator and guide, we turned back around 5:00 pm, traversing the battered road in darkness as night fell early in the region. We spent the night at a basic facility near Wokha, regrettably abandoning plans to visit the Mokokchung and Mon villages to witness the last remnants of the headhunters of the Konyak tribe.
While one disappointment unfolded, it paved the way for another opportunity. With two free days on hand, we redirected our plans to visit Majuli Island, the largest river island globally, and explore the culture of the Mishing people.
More about those in coming weeks.
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